253 photos

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Petrified Forest, Arizona
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San Carlos, Mexico
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Europe
482 photos in 24 sub-albums
9/19 LONDON The plane ride went very smoothly. At the train station I had to stop and soak it all in. People move so fast and I kept getting in their way. I stood gawking at all the people, the stores, the signs, the little bakeries, everything new to me. I just watched in awe, thinking, “Wow, this is a British sign! A British store!” After asking around and observing others I figured out how to get around on the underground subway. I can’t believe I’m really here!!!
Pieter and Raewyn have a cute little flat in northwest London. Houses in London are half a million dollars for a teeny tiny flat! This is quite an expensive, busy, crowded city. It’s overwhelming at first. One dollar = 0.58 here, so it’s like cutting your money in half. There is so much history here. Really quite clean, old buildings pretty well maintained. I was surprised at how few British accents I heard. There are lots of nationalities, mainly Turkish and middle eastern I think. Pieter took me to Big Ben, London tower, London Bridge, the London Eye Ferris Wheel, and we went inside the Dali museum and Tate modern. I was disappointed at the Dali gallery; they had none of his famous paintings, just some fabulous sculptures and some disturbing drawings. Tate was impressive, just my style, tons of abstract and familiar artists. Afterwards we all went to a Turkish restaurant and I had a delicious minced lamb dish with yogurt and bread. Mmmm. Then I passed out from jetlag.
9/20 CANTERBURY Met Marty and Ken on train to Canterbury. Nice couple. Ken is a Retired lawyer. They Live in Mexico and Tucson. Saw Canterbury castle, it is just ruins... Lovely town, cobble stone streets, mostly newer since it got bombed in WWII, Canterbury cathedral all that survived. Gorgeous old building, tons of history. Note- read Canterbury tales. Children in uniform with British accents running around school in back, felt like I was in a movie. Had to pinch myself- I'm really here! Now back to the Soer residence, Pieter is cooking Indian food for dinner! Bought Rae an elephant in market, guy said it’s really old, I asked how old, oh hundreds of years. So it’s probably bullshit, but it’s cute anyway. Hope she likes it.
9/21 CAMBRIDGE I am so lucky Pieter is on sick leave and able to show me around! Such a nice host! We went to Cambridge today and went from chapel to college until our feet gave out on us. Kings College was my favorite. I fell in love with the place, would love to study there someday. Then we took a punt ride down the river. Our Guide was a nice German named Christian. He tried to teach me how to man the punt. I was quite clumsy with it! It’s harder than it looks. Had an English breakfast and lager for lunch, which consists of sausage, ham, tomato, mushrooms, chips (French fries), and egg. Very tasty. Cambridge is a nice college town, with tons of old churches and schools, and of course shops (what would a college town be without them?). We had Chinese for dinner then went to a British pub. Love the white beer called hoegaarden. Much prefer the English ale to our imports as well. Pieter and Rae are not party animals so we just had a few drinks.
9/23 PARIS Long day at eurostar. Left too early, waited in station for 3 hours. Kind of a waste of the day but better safe than sorry! Met Marla on the train, nice girl from New York, living in London on business until December. My first impression of Paris was the group of protesters outside the train screaming eurostar has no security in French. Then numerous foreign women perhaps Turkish or Indian approached me at different intervals asking if I spoke English, then gave me a letter asking for money with different sob stories. I finally just acted like I didn't know English. Then an African man followed me around while I searched for my hotel and tried to communicate in French. I couldn't understand anything but I didn't trust him and he was annoying me so finally I said “no, merci”, and walked as fast as I could away from him. Finally I found my hotel, put my stuff down, and walked to a nearby seafood restaurant to splurge on a good meal. I am a bit overwhelmed here in a huge dirty city not knowing the language. I yearn for a little countryside village ...but I am so very close to all the amazing sights so that makes up for it. It is a new experience, living in a big city. It would be nice to have a friend here, like dear Pieter and Rae. I should check couchsurfing for a pal to sample the nightlife with...hmm. On the other side of the coin, it is nice to be in my own room, with my own bathroom, with peace and quiet. To do what I want and not have to worry about pleasing someone else. It’s all about finding a nice easy balance.
9/23 PARIS Thank God! All of Paris is not so dirty, scary, and crowded. Just my neighborhood. But 5 min. Walk down the street and you are in the center of Parisian culture! So I'm ok with that. I walked by everything I possibly could today. Went inside Notre Dame, visited all the shops, and walked along the seine. Got to the louve just as they were closing, so missed Mona Lisa. Perhaps tomorrow I will ditch Versailles and museum hop. Ran into a cute guy and we went to the Eiffel tower together. I really had a great time with him. He is European, Islamic and Indian. Also Muslim. His name is Adel. Will get his engineering degree this year. Nice guy really. We laughed and joked and made weird faces and sound effects, ran around in the rain like little children. He practically begged to come up to my room afterwards but I declined. Anyway, he respected that and still wanted to see me tomorrow. So now I know where everything is and have a better idea of the subway here. Want to go to the top of the Eiffel tomorrow too. Really enjoyed just walking around and taking it all in today. Paris is beautiful, very sophisticated and elegant. Traffic is crazy and it is crowded like any big city, nevertheless its historical charm and wide sidewalks, endless cafes and boutiques and gorgeous seine river are a treasure.
9/24 PARIS Slept in until noon, (travel is catching up with me) then met Adel. Muslims go one Sunday of every month without any food or water, and this happened to be that day for him. I felt so bad for him, but he didn't complain at all. He said it’s good for the body and the mind; it makes you stronger and more appreciative. We went to the Louvre and spent all day there. Mona Lisa really is different up close, smaller in scale than one would imagine. Saw ancient artifacts and art dating 2000 yrs. Before Christ! Unbelievable. We wondered how they can pinpoint the exact year. Afterwards, we went back to the Eiffel tower and this time I went to the top. It was the most amazing view! Absolutely breathtaking! Made me realize just how big this city really is. By this time I was quite the weary traveler. Adel wanted to take me to the sacre, then to the latin quarter for some night life and clubs, and the Moulin rouge, and I regretfully could think of nothing but food and bed. My legs betrayed me. I am getting old.
9/25 BRUGGE While waiting for my train to Amsterdam I met a nice man named Santiago, from Buenos Aires. He reminded me of Serafin. He convinced me to take a detour with him to Brugge, Belgium. I am so glad I did! So far this is my favorite place, and Santiago was a lot of fun. We got separate rooms in a nice hotel, and then walked around in the rain while he sang beautiful songs in Spanish. Later we had some delicious rabbit for dinner, and headed to a pub to sample Belgium beer. My favorite beer is now raspberry Belgium. Mmm...
9/26 BRUGGE Brugge is the most charming little medieval village, with Dutch buildings, cobblestone streets, horse drawn carriages and such nice people. How refreshing after all the big cities. We checked out of the hotel and left our bags there so we could wander around. I tried some delicious Belgium chocolate, and we went in the belfry and some old churches. My new friend seemed to be growing attached to me and I am glad to part ways. I am not looking for love here, I am running from it. I did have a marvelous time and he is a great guy. It truly is more fun when you have someone to play with. But I will meet many more wonderful people. Of this I have no doubt. Brugge was magical, truly a fairytale. I will never forget it. I am learning to not hold on to things, but to cherish my experiences and move on to the next. There are always more. I am on the train now to meet Anne, from couchsurfing.com. Amsterdam, here I come.
9/27 AMSTERDAM Last night Anna took me to a bar here and we had some Amsterdam beer and a chat. She is such an interesting woman! A true Aquarius- like Pieter, who never runs out of things to say. She has a little flat in the old Latin quarter, now called the pipe. I am staying in a room in the attic. Didn't sleep well but that's ok. She is in her 40s, divorced with a son and daughter in their 20s. She was one of those cool moms that all the kids wanted to hang out with. She still is, I think. Young at heart. A free spirit. I like her. She gave me tons of advice on what do see and do here, enough for at least 3 days. She said I could stay until Thurs. And she could show me around then. She has autographs all over her bathroom wall from travelers who have enjoyed her company from all over the world.
After some espresso I went off to explore. Covered most of Amsterdam on foot. I think I have overdosed on churches and museums because all I felt like doing was walking, shopping, bar hopping and eating. Amsterdam is not a beautiful city in my eyes; I wasn't really even inspired to take pictures. A lot of construction everywhere. Canals. Shops. Bars. Red light district, of course. I thought it would be more glamorous, but they are just normal ugly worn out overweight strung out looking hookers. Nothing special except that they rent out a window and a room, stand there in their lingerie, shaking their butt or rubbing lotion on their tired bodies. They pay taxes and have to get licensed. Smoking cafes, where they sell pot and smoke freely. It is still illegal but they don't enforce it at all. It is considered a soft drug. They also sell mushrooms and ecstasy here. So after much walking I began to get a feel for things, and sat to have beer. Then tea. Then I got the courage to go into a smoking café and sat next to a guy and his father. We hit it off immediately and he shared his joint with me. They mix them with tobacco so they aren’t so strong. Which is good, because my tolerance is low. It’s been years since I smoked weed. His dad was smoking too! He said his parents were hippies; it wasn't a big deal for them. His name was Brandon, from Connecticut. A firefighter. Ahh, I liked him very much...we talked and joked around for hours, until his dad wanted to leave to get dinner. I enjoyed his company tremendously. There are all kinds of people in these cafes, old and young, business like and hippy like ... People I would never picture smoking a joint. It was quite an experience. Amsterdam has such a wonderful nightlife. After all the beer, tea, coffee, and pot I felt like I was on a cloud, and I'm afraid I lost all track of time and forgot my manners. I had been gone more than 12 hours and not thought to call Anna and let her know I was alright. Poor woman was worried sick when I finally called around midnight because I got lost on my way home. Luckily I was just down the block. I forgot to ask how her job interview went. Pot got the best of my manners. I hope she forgives me and doesn't leave any negative comments on couchsurfing. I feel awful. Slept like a baby though. I need to wash clothes very soon... And decide if I should stay here one more night or start my journey to Germany and Oktoberfest.
9/28 AMSTERDAM Had a nice lunch with Anna at a Moroccan restaurant in a historical building. Nice place. She forgave my mishaps last night. Anna had kind of figured that I’d been partying and lost track of time, she’d just never had a guest been gone for that long. Afterwards I browsed the market square shops for hours. Can't find any small, decent gifts. Its hard when you have to pack light and have 4 more countries to go to still. Can't get everyone something from everywhere. So, since I can't decide I just look. Anyway, went back to my favorite café, the rokery, and tried to finish my joint. Couldn't do it, just threw the rest out. it was fun to dabble a bit since i was in amsterdam where its no big deal, seemed part of the cultural exoerience to me, but enough was enough. I was a bit worried about the tobacco in it but it didn't get me hooked again. I think I'm immune to that now. If anything, it tasted nasty to me. Got that nice fluffy serene feeling again and walked back to Anna’s. She cooked a nice Dutch meal, and we watched television while I looked for a place to stay in Germany.
9/30 STUTTGART Well, I finally arrived at the kongress hotel around 2 AM. I got off at the wrong stop twice, forgetting there were numerous stations in each city. I finally realized that hbf meant central station, and found a train that was supposed to go straight there, but midway they kicked everyone off and I couldn't understand German and have no idea why. Then the next 2 trains I waited for never came. Finally I found a girl who spoke English and she said it was just delayed. Much later the cab driver told me it is typical with night trains in Germany. Now I know! Well, everything can't go smoothly all the time! I was unbelievably impressed with my hotel. How I got such a great deal I do not know. It is an elegant 4 star hotel, with sauna, fitness room, and a Turkish bath. My room is huge with a minibar, feather down comforter and pillows, bathrobe, the works. And it includes a huge breakfast buffet with everything you could want, not just the usual European bread, meat and cheese breakfast, but also eggs and cereal, sausage, fruits, veggies, yogurt, juice, coffee, everything... All for just 50 euros a night! I feel like a princess. This is truly luxurious. Especially after sleeping on a mattress in the attic at Anna’s. Although that was fine too. You get used to just about anything, and realize just how easily one can live without certain things, and how little one really needs.
What a day! Today I hated Germany. I almost cried (actually, truth be told, I did). I found the people to be cold, not at all helpful, and few spoke English. I can't expect them too either, I mean, I am in Germany, what did I expect? It’s just that language barriers hadn’t presented any problems until now. I wanted to go to Rothenberg or the Burg Eltz Castle, (which is still intact and has managed to preserve all its original furnishings!!!) I took the underground to central station, and somehow got lost among all the unfamiliar signs. Finally I found the tourist center, where not a thing was in English. I waited in line and asked the agent a few questions that he couldn’t understand. I did manage to find out where the trains were, and went back to central station and followed the db sign upstairs. The man at the ticket counter did not understand me either. I asked for a train to the burg eltz castle, and he gave me the train to the city Kassel. Not where I wanted to go. Next I stopped in an internet café to try and find info, but it was expensive, one Euro for 2 minutes, so I gave up on that. The lady from the hotel had told me that the beer festival in Stuttgart was the same as the Oktoberfest in Munich, and she had given me directions (thank god). So I took the subway there and drank and ate until I just about puked. I had this weird dish called snoodelen or something like that, which was sauerkraut with some unidentifiable things mixed in. The beer was ok. I liked Belgium and English ale better. Anyway, Oktoberfest was just a festival like any other, with rides, games, shops, food, and drinks. It was a really young crowd. Some of the older generations wore costumes. Around dusk it got so crowded I felt claustrophic and a bit sick from sugar and alcohol so I headed back to my hotel by subway. At my stop I couldn't figure out how to open the door to the tram and nobody budged to help me, they just sat back and watched as I pushed and pulled and searched for a button. Finally I frantically asked “does anyone speak English?” No one answered. I tried again, “how do you open the door?” Finally a girl showed me the button, but it was too late. I had to get out at the next stop and take another rail back. This was when the tears came and I decided I hated Germany. Once back in my room I thought about it and changed my attitude. I am a tourist. It is my duty to learn the ways of this culture and find my way around. If people are not helpful, perhaps I am approaching them wrong or maybe they just don't like tourists invading their homeland. It’s not personal, and I will not let it get me down! I will ask more questions, be more assertive and pay more attention. I will try harder. I can not leave Germany without seeing a castle and Rothenberg. There is more here than Stuttgart and the kongress hotel! I won't give up. Tomorrow I will march back in that train station and this time I will bring a map, make the choo choo sound and point to where I want to go.
10/1 ROTHENBURG Well, I didn't make it to any castles, but I did get to Rothenberg. I did just as I planned, choo choo sound and all. The lady still didn't understand me, didn't really seem to want to bother. Luckily, the ticket agent next to her knew a bit of English and interpreted for her. Rothenberg is a lot like Brugge. A quaint medieval village, without a modern building in sight. Old museums and churches, torture chambers and such were closed because it is Sunday. It is high up on a hilltop, enclosed by fortress walls. Lots of shops, specializing in Christmas stuff. My mom would love this place. Breathtaking views and again horse drawn carriages and cobblestone streets. I am so glad I got to see this, even if the sights were closed. Met a nice German boy who laughed at my battle with the German trains, he said its better to find it humorous than to get mad. It’s just the way things are. I can agree now that I feel more comfortable with the system. I debated staying to see the black forest, Munich, the Rhine River, burg eltz and King Ludwig’s castles... Decided I have had enough of Germany and its funny trains. I missed the Rhine and don't feel like backtracking. I should have taken Pieter’s advice and stayed in Cologne, but it’s too late now. Time to move on. I have learned that its better to ask than to assume, always seek out a map and tourist office immediately, and even though hotels are nice and cozy, you get a much better, authentic experience when you couchsurf with a local (plus great advice, directions and a new friend are big bonuses!). I am not even halfway through my trip yet! Hard to believe.
10/2 SALZBURG Finally got the train system down and made my way to Salzburg seamlessly. Met a guy at the station there, we were both trying to find a phone to call the same hostel. We trekked there together and got along very well. He is a spoiled rich kid of 22, I think his name was Clark, whose parents pay for him to travel the world for a year! Lucky boy. Really quite respectful and mature for his age though. We walked around town, went up the lift to the castle to breathe in the majestic views, then ate some pumpkin soup and apple strudel and watched the sound of music in our hostel. It was my first hostel experience. Not the best to start with, it catered more to children and families, but it was good enough. For 20 euros you get a bed in an 8 bed dorm and a locker and a full breakfast and hot shower in a shared bathroom. Just like camp really. In some you will meet an older crowd, and many have bars and single rooms too. I will try more out in Venice, I think. Good way to meet people, although I've been doing a pretty good job of that on my own! I am enjoying the scenery here in Austria, so much green and gorgeous old baroque architecture. Fresh mountain air. Ahhh. Splendid. Pity I can't stay longer, but Italy and Greece are calling my name.
10/3 KUFSTEIN I am on the train to Venice. There was a stopover in a cute town in Tirol, Austria called Kufstein. I got to roam about for an hour. There is a lovely river with a whitish opaque look to it, the Alps shrouded with trees looming above, green rolling hills, stunning! There is even a castle here, but I didn't have enough time to investigate it. Austria is beautiful! We just passed by Innsbruck, and I have never seen anything more beautiful. How I would have loved to stay here and hike one night! The green Alps are everywhere you look, streams here and there with sheep grazing, little cottages spotting the canvas of the train window. I could stop... Get off on the next stop and enjoy nature at its finest for a day... The clouds create a dreamy mist over the tops of the mountains, lush forest everywhere. But it’s already late and I am happy just to have witnessed this. Some day I will take another trip here just to hike the Alps. Today I gaze out the window and give my eyes a feast. It is too bad pictures don't turn out so well from this vantage point.
10/3 VENICE Venice is quite expensive. I have a hotel on the canal, right in the center. It is a nice old room, and I have my first bidet. And how do I use it? This I know not. There is a high tide and water everywhere. It is beautiful with all the lights reflecting on the water. I walked around and window shopped. Lots of Milano glass sculpture, exquisite artwork. Would love to bring back some. Trying to keep a budget though and the room alone is my day’s allowance. But I have so far been pretty good and stayed below budget, so it’s ok. I can manage. After this my sweet tooth got to me again (I’m such a food whore when I travel) and I had some gelato, Bellini, and their strawberry white wine with some dessert and now that I am well on my way to lardville I am retiring for the evening. It was a long ride here. Got to speak to my mom for a minute but I was so hyped up about my travel experiences that I'm afraid she couldn't get a word in. I do miss everyone. But I'm not homesick. I'm quite happy. Couldn't be more entertained, for I am on a month long adventure and it’s orchestrated purely by me and my fancy.
I think the best thing for me is the knowledge that I put myself here, I did this! With God’s help and very good luck and karma and hard work. I have achieved a life long goal and am just blessed and quite proud really. I am really here. And it’s even more wonderful than I could have imagined. Such a learning and growing experience.
10/4 VENICE Venice is a tourist cesspool. A bit overrated and way overpriced in my opinion. It does have its charm, no doubt about that. The narrow lanes and canals, clothes hanging on lines everywhere, drunk Italian men singing their hearts out, and such historic churches and palaces! I only got inside the doges palace, some small churches, and the bell tower on San Marcos square. The main church I waited in line for 30 minutes for and then they told me I had to get rid of my backpack and get back in line so I gave up and roamed about. It is so easy to get lost here, even with a map. I chose to use my nikes for transportation instead of the 80 Euro gondola rides or the 5 Euro boats. Still I managed to spend way too much money. You can't help it here- they even charge you to sit! To use a toilet! Everything has a price and it is all expensive. I'm glad I only have a day here. I really have gone overboard on food and drink and extras that are unnecessary. I should spend less on that and more on gifts for people and museums and stuff... Trial and error. This is how I learn. The advantage of a tourist pit is that everything is tourist friendly and bilingual. The downside is that you get a less authentic experience- it seems like more of a theme park than a cultural exchange. I know I was just complaining about language barriers, but it’s kind of disappointing when everyone speaks English in Italy. Most folks you meet are tourists. I found myself peeking into windows wondering how the Italians here live, what their flats look like, what they believe in, their traditions, How they interact with each other, etc. Yes, I love art and history and to see all the famous sights. But I've found that I am much more interested in learning other cultures, and meeting people from all over the world. Hearing about their lives. And seeing nature in its many shapes and forms. The things I treasure most are simple and free.
10/5 VENICE well I got to see that church this morning and it was well worth the wait in line! Gold spackled walls and elaborate décor embellished every square inch. Not to mention the murals and sculpture. It was incredible. Ahh. Venice is glorious! I must say it. Yes, it’s crowded and touristy, but this is why. Then on my boat ride back to the station I got to see the rest of Venice float by. Ah, the art and history here are just unparallel.
10/5 FLORENCE I accidentally took the wrong train again and almost ended up in Slokvia. Luckily I realized it and only went an hour out if my way. Got turned back around and made in here to Florence. Got to try out a lovely hole in the ground toilet too! Gross. Florence seems to have a hip night life, but I just had a glass of wine and got online to try to book a couch to surf. Italy is killing my wallet. Florence is just as bad as Venice. Everything was booked, too. I had to try 8 hotels until I finally found a vacancy in a 4 star hotel for 100 Euro. Ouch. It is very nice though. Quite a weird setup, much like a townhouse, with the bathroom and hall down stairs and the bedroom upstairs. Can't wait to see the city tomorrow!
10/6 FLORENCE Florence is lovely! Everywhere you look there is art, sculpture, statues, murals, mosaics, cathedrals, museums. Gelato and bakeries on every corner. It overwhelms the senses. I went to the dome and they made me put a paper shawl on my shoulders to cover up. Then to some more churches and a small palace. Paid to get in but they don't tell you before hand that you only get to see one room (which was magnificent!), then a small museum and a statue. After this I walked about aimlessly and looked at everything, then sat for some salad and wine. Met a nice group of guys from Florida, and we wanted to hang out tonight but I will be staying with Lucia. So we chatted until I had to go meet her. She lives in Chianti, wine country, in a stunning red brick home amidst grape vines and a garden. She gave me my own room and cooked a scrumptious 3 course Italian dinner, pasta then meat then fruit for dessert. She also has 2 sons but I only met her 16 yr old, Christophe. Very nice people. I went to bet early and slept like a baby in her comfortable bed.
10/7 FLORENCE We woke early and had a traditional Italian breakfast (cookies and coffee) then she dropped Christophe off at school, and showed me the side of Florence tourists don't usually see. She was a wonderful host and shared her traditions and culture and some history with me too. She had to go around 11 am. Then I walked a bit, ate a quick lunch and headed for the train station.
10/7 ROME Francesco picked me up in Rome and took me to his lovely penthouse suite in the center. Very nice roman gentleman. There are 2 other girls here who have the spare room tonight and I get the sofa. They are very friendly, from Singapore and Austria, Eve and Libby. Tomorrow they leave and I get the bedroom. Francesco made me very comfortable here. I walked around and got lost as usual, then he called and picked me up and took me on a quick tour by car and bought me some delicious melon gelato. Gave me a lot of historical info and insider info I never would have gotten from the guide books. Then we came back and I am exhausted.
10/8 ROME Rome is stunning. Every building towers over you, competing for the sky. Ancient ruins where, if you close your eyes and use your imagination you can see the old Romans in all their glory (and gore). Some of these forums and churches date back 2000 years! I can feel the roman warriors in the air; there is an electric aura here. The Vatican is its own city now, in order to separate church and state. St Peters basilica is a work of art, with marble and gold and Michelangelo’s genius. The Sistine chapel was closed, unfortunately. Finally got to see a castle, castel angelo, the coluseum, circo massimo, plazza venezia. Been walking all day. Now drinking wine and people watching.
Later Francesco took me to a lavish, top dollar restaurant and we had raw fish and lobster. Delish. Never thought raw fish could be so good. He is quite famous here, being the supplier of free internet access to all of Rome. In the morning he helped me find the right train and then I worked on his injured shoulder a bit. It had been hurting him for months, and he was so happy to feel no more pain. Afterwards he cooked up a lunch of beef and sparkling wine. Fantastic cook.
10/10 LEVKAS Spent all day traveling yesterday. Met some interesting people on the night ferry, Belinda and Michael. We drank and talked for hours, then danced. They invited me to their home in Levkas. The ocean is like crystal glass, you can even see clouds reflecting on the surface. Such an easy laid back life here. No worries at all. This is my fantasy land. They are like gypsies, they travel and live on the boat, sell things here and there, live cheaply. No problems. Very little work. Food here is spectacular, fresh fish and bread... Wine in barrels you just fill up your jug... Houses half built so they don't have to pay for them, just a relaxed easy town. Showered, napped for a half hour or so, then took a nice walk into the village. Shopped around for a bit and realized I wasn't in the mood, then accidentally bypassed Bindy’s house on the way back and hiked to the top of the mountain, where I found the most spectacular views! The exercise felt so good after all the sitting on trains and ferries. When I returned, they had wakened from their siestas and we had James pick us up for dinner. They butchered a goat for us right on the spot, cooked it up and served it fresh. Delicious! Such an odd flavor, almost like a hint of feta. And the cheese is incredible! At this point sleep deprivation got the best of me, we ate sweets and I slept like a baby.
10/11 LEVKAS Next day we rented scooters and cruised all around the island. So many beautiful photos! We saw the ruins of an old castle. Then we headed for the beach, where the sand consists of little pebbles instead of fine sand. It’s nice because it doesn't stick to you and it’s still soft to touch. Micha and I talked for hours. I had thought they were still a couple, but they broke up years ago. She came from New Zealand and fell in love, never went home. They lived on a boat for years, traveling here and there. Now they are just friends. Belinda is such beautiful woman, inside and out. So free, fun loving, practical and down to earth. So comfortable in her own skin. I love her. Love them both really. Micha is a typical Leo, from Russia. Very passionate, loving, generous, loyal. In the evening we read poetry and music and discussed life, society and love. Such deep people. Bindy and I acted like sisters, it’s so wonderful to meet a female who I connect with, who connects with me. We were both so excited and girly, Micha had to laugh. For dinner we were invited on the Italian’s (Pablo and Jay) boat and Pablo cooked an Italian feast.
10/12 LEVKAS Spent last 2 days in paradise. Fantastic friendship in Micha and Bindy, spectacular views. Scooters. Dinner on boat. Ahh. This afternoon micha took me on his parents’ boat. His mom speaks a little English and was very sweet, showed me pictures. His father only spoke Russian. He is trying to convince me to sail with them, but I'm set on Santorini. Afterwards we relaxed, went to the beach and basked in the sun. Had some coffee, checked out more views, then Belinda cooked us a scrumptious vegetarian dinner and we went to bed.
10/14 SANTORINI I am almost on the last leg of my journey. I feel like I’ve been traveling for years. No complaints though. Santorini was such a different experience from Levkas and the Ionian Islands. It is so desolate, an island of stark contrasts and barren black and red rock. Bright white and vivid blue buildings really set the stage against the deep blue waters and black sand beaches. The strong heat and winds make it tough to grow anything, but they manage to make it work for them. They grow their grapevines in a circle, like a basket, to protect them from the elements. They also grow these delicious tiny tomatoes, capers and olives. Aside from this there is no green, no trees. A clear cut horizon. A land built on volcanic ash and molten lava. Interesting to see, but a day was enough. Fira, the capital, was another tourist trap. I was lucky to have Belinda with me, she speaks Greek and we got along well with the venders (tourists sharks really- Belinda understands their ways because she works with them- cant blame them for trying to make a buck, but they really take advantage and rip tourists off because they know they can- which is why all these touristy places are so expensive- the natives are getting rich from it) and we got a hotel for 10 euros each, (for English speakers usually it would be 30-85) and the owner even gave us some of his special homemade Santorini wine- this is quite a treat! It was fruity, neither white nor red. We walked along the black beach and took bus to the castle where we explored the little village on the mountain. Then we went to Fira and shopped overpriced stores, and hiked the 600 steps to the bottom and back up the mountain. Ate an expensive dinner and took a taxi back.
10/15 ATHENS On 10 hour ferry again. Feeling a bit seasick and cant wait to get home again. Slept on floor most of the way. Belinda’s Greek friend Thenasa picked us up in Athens and took us to dinner. We are staying with him and his mother, who is a famous Greek folk singer, and her music is hauntingly beautiful. (When you can’t understand the words you get to focus more on the notes and instruments and tone, and to just appreciate the sound without the meaning). Thenasa takes care of her.
10/16 ATHENS Thenasa showed us around Athens today, just saw the acropolis... ahh, history...and it is being reconstructed so beautifully. It is not in bits and pieces like the roman ruins, but almost intact. The sleek marble is amazing, to think of all the earthquakes and centuries of hardship it has survived... We shopped around, had a traditional Greek lunch, then Bindy and I had our last binge on sweets. Now at airport heading to London, where I will reunite with my new friends Pieter and Rae, and we will see a show and visit the national gallery of art, then next day I fly home sweet home! Can’t wait.
10/17 LONDON Arrived back in London again at 1am and slept at the airport. Actually woke feeling very rested. It’s not so bad. The seats are much more comfortable than the floor or seat of the ferry was. I slept with my suitcase under the seat with my arm resting on it, and my backpack I used as a pillow. Rae is waiting for me at home. They both work today, so I will get some nice alone time. I’m really looking forward to it. I can't wait to be back in my condo, with my loving puppy and my unnecessary luxuries.
I took a long luxurious bath, then strolled Covent Garden and Leicester square. London is such an exciting city! Met Pieter at national gallery, saw Rembrandt and others, ate Indonesian, then Rae joined us to head to the Agatha Christy play, the mousetrap, the longest running play in its 53rd year! On the way we spotted a crowd outside the new Monty python, and stopped to investigate. It was opening night. And many of London’s most famous celebrities were attending! I got pictures of some of them, but the crowd became too dense eventually to get a shot. I personally only recognized the first lady, Kim I think was her name; she was the only woman in Monty python. There was an actor from Harry potter as well, one of the professors. Also the guitarist from queen, a famous singer and many actors and actresses. It was very exciting! The crowd was ecstatic!
The mousetrap was a brilliant production! A whodunit thriller that leaves you clueless until the very end. The culprit was the last person I suspected! It was such a masterful plot with a very talented cast. Such characters! Pity I couldn't have seen more shows! London nightlife is just oozing with excitement. This was really my first glimpse and I want more! It was only a Tuesday night, and felt like a weekend. And I love the diversity here, all walks of life in their many styles and mannerisms, shopping, rushing to work, drinking tea or beer, cramming together like sardines in the subway, the clickity clack of a nice pair of boots, the flash of a rainbow colored Mohawk, the glamour and glitz mingling with the poorly kept and careless, so many cultures. Great place to people watch! Pity it’s so expensive here.
Now I’m on my way home and full of joy and content. I have truly had the time of my life! And learned so much about myself, and life, and love. I've learned to be more comfortable around others, to feel at home anywhere. To let go and make the best of things. I've learned that everywhere you go there are good, loving and trustworthy people. It’s not necessary to cling tightly, but rather to truly enjoy what time you have and cherish the memories. If paths cross again it will be wonderful. If not, I will never forget the great moments shared. When you let go of all your comforts and routines, all of your fears and familiar faces, truly step away from your home, your comfort zone, you are free. Absolutely free. Your mind opens up if you let it, and you realize how much more there is to life than your little corner of it. What a shame it would be to never step outside the box. .. I feel alive, I feel blessed. I am full. Ready to go home, to relish my experiences and find a steady rhythm again, while I plan my next trip... I am addicted now. My first mission is to thoroughly explore Arizona. I've called it home so many years, but never really took much of an interest. Now I want to know everything. -
Puerto Rico
137 photos in 6 sub-albums
1/18/07 HATO REY
Everyone seemed to enjoy my little travel journal so much last time that I've decided to continue my tales on each adventure, and who knows, maybe i'll have a book some day? This expedition is in san juan, puerto rico! Zorida has a guesthouse and her couchsurfers stay free. She met me at the airport and just eminates this warm joyous glow! So friendly and bubbly! At the house I got to meet more wonderful, outgoing and welcoming people, and she fed me some traditional dish resembling a tamale but made with plantains (like a banana). Zoraida's rooms all got booked up from the festival, so shes got couchsurfers on bunks in the guesthouse and I have a tent on the porch!!! I'm in heaven!!! This weather is awsome, rainy but warm, and breezy. The frogs almost sound like birds, and I'm out here in my little fort! Still have easy access to the house. Everyone is so friendly. We've been talking nonstop since I arrived. We are all going to the san sebastian festival together tomorrow! Lin has a taxi van and will take me to the rainforest, luminscent bay and beach this weekend too! Yay! There is sooo much to do here! Nobert (from germany) came here almost a month ago, intending to stay a week, but he said its keeps getting extended because the entertainment and festivities never stop. I'm so excited I could burst and sleep is not going to be an easy feat. All around me are exotic tropical sounds, and you'd think the gentle rain and tropical breeze would lull me to sleep but I'm ready to go explore now! Ok. Patience angela.
1/19 OLD SAN JUAN
What a day! I am very near to collapsing into a heap of exhausted slumber. After 2 hours of sleep I awoke to the singing of the coquis (the frogs I metioned before- they are indigenous to puerto rico and have been known to drive people off the island they are so loud) and my first glimpse of hato rey in daylight. Bright, spanish style homes in rainbows of color, with fancy rod iron smothering each window and door, and then wrapping around the whole premises, like a cocoon, for protection. They say the crime is very high here, but we saw policia on every corner, friendly yet watchful. Must be for the festival. So I've been on foot for 16 hours today, not to mention the 3 hours of dancing as one with the millions of residents who crammed into old san juan to celebrate saint sebastion. Man, they know how to have fun. not the healthiest bunch, though. They fry practically everything, all we could find was comida frita, and mcdonalds and such. I found people here to be very friendly and down to earth, very unsuperficial. The humidity is hard for me to get used to though. Sticky sticky. Never feel clean. San juan pulsates with vibrant colors, rhythms, and people. The african drums and spanish singing still echo in my ears as my eyes begin to droop. Norbert and I decided to rent a car tomorrow and explore the rest of puerto rico. This way we can see more in less time. Sleep beckons. I get a bed tonight, and it is calling me.
1/20 EL YUNQUE
The rental car worked well. Norbert talked my ear off, bless his heart; he is a very gererous, considerate, and and respectful man who loves to chat. it was a fantastic day! We hiked through el yunque rainforest, down to a huge waterfall. The leaves on the ground were the size of a car tire, green, tropical flora and fauna making a canopy overhead as they all fight for the sunlight. Vines hanging, twisting and twirling around enormous trees . The sunlight sneaks in here and there and splashes vibrant light on the green hues. We had a little photoshoot of an iguana, poor thing was terrified, I think. After this we headed to fijardo, where we kayaked to the luminescent bay. The plankton here (both plant and animal) cause the water to glow when you touch it. When you swish your leg around in the water it really lights up, if you just dip your hand in it kind of sends little sparks up. Really cool to see.
1/21 LUQUILLO, COUNTRYSIDE, PONCE
You can cover the entire island of Puerto rico by car in a day. We did this today, for the most part. We began in luquillo beach, the most beautiful beach I have ever laid eyes on. A tropical paradise, with palm trees, florescent green algae decorating the rocks and limestone coloring the atlantic. Poor matted strays are everywhere we went, much like mexico. But the further west you go the more dense the foliage, the tops of trees creating what look like hills of their own. The trees are so plentiful you cannot see any branches underneath the leaves, only some red flowers dotting the bright greens. The further south you go, the more varieties of plants. Every corner reveals a whole new jungle, forest, rainforest, farm, etc. Always the cute spanish style homes, sometimes pastel pink, others bright blue, or yellow, green, no color is neglected. Except maybe black brown and white. The boring ones. And always the fast food, kiosks with every fried treat imaginable, gleaming with saturated oils, dripping onto the plate. Ick. They have the highest concentration of fast food in the world. Seriously. We stopped in ponce and really had to search hard to find a real restaurant, with decent food. At ponce beach the locals were all hanging out by the docks, playing music, salsa dancing, drinking pina coladas, it was fun. We are heading back to zoridas now and tomorrow I return home to winter. Yuck. Here it is 86 but with humidity it feels like 100 back home. Today wasn't so bad though, no rain so less humidity. -
Grand Canyon, Arizona
50 photos
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New Zealand
358 photos in 5 sub-albums
4/15/07 PAIHIA Its so gorgeous, clean and green here! I feel like I'm in lord of the rings! It was kind of creepy too because last night at dinner there was a poor disfigured boy wandering around with a huge hump in his back, talking madly, I hate to say it, but he sounded and looked like that my precious creature. (what was his name?) In a really freaky way. I don't know where his parents were, it was strange for him to be all alone like that. Poor kid. First day was really nice. They accidentaly messed up my car reservation and didnt have any gps for me, but I figured it was a good opportunity to fine tune my navigation and driving skills, and as always when I believe I will be awful at something and am forced to do it, I surprised myself at being quite adept. Huge Map in hand and steering wheel on the right, I found my way without having to turn around once. I was very proud of myself. It helps, of course, that NZ is so organized and traffic was very light. Its not so difficult to adjust to driving on the left, and giving way to the right. I do keep getting in the car on the wrong side though! I made a friend on my way here, really nice guy with 6 kids here in wellington. Coincidentally, we were seated together on both flights!
His friend is a pilot and he offered to take me aroung the south island, but he didn't realize I was getting off at auckland, not wellington, so it didn't work out. Anyway, he was really nice and informative. The flight was a breeze, they serve delicous new zealand food, and had tons of movies. I was able to get enough sleep, as I was lucky enough to have an empty seat between Jim and I that I could lie down on.
When I first sat in the rental car I perused the maps for a good 30 minutes (after squealing with delight) then followed another car out. I did take the wrong turn at a roundabout (these weird rounded intersections) but after finding my location on the map realized I was still was headed in the right direction, and was able to get over to the right highway with little problem. People seem to drive pretty fast here, the limit said 80km but traffic went at least 100-130. I went at a leisurely pace and let them pass. Once I was on the right track I was able to glimpse the scenery, just past the big city of auckland there was a view of the sky tower and all the skyscrapers against the water. Really beautiful. Then the landscape got greener and lusher, the houses all meticulously maintained and looking brand new. The further north I went the fewer homes I saw, until it finally tapered out to nothing but misty green hills, farms and abundant trees with elegantly wavy branches. I had expected the bay of islands to be 2 and a half hours away, but it took 4. It was a nice chance to get accustomed to the new driving rules, and of course just to see the scenery. I found a hotel immediately, and the receptionist was very friendly and helpful. Got washed up, and went out to explore. Paihai is a small, quaint beach town. Found a magnet, then walked down to the beach and strolled along the shoreline. The rocks jutting out to the water and creeping up the mountain below the trees were art all by themselves, with patterns and colorful designs as if someone had lovingly painted them. And at each mile they changed dramatically, from spotted browns to greys and purples. The combination of rock and tree, sand and water is really lovely. It got dark around 630, and I went back to town to try some new zealand lamb and wine and came back to the hotel intending to read and write some, but I ended up crashing pretty hard and slept like the dead. 2 fun little facts I learned today: prostitution is legal here, and they did away with pennies and nickels, its only dimes, quarters, 1 and 2 dollar coins. Yet they still use prices like $4.99, which really means 5, of course, because they don't have change for 99 cents.
4/16/07 BAY OF ISLANDS I woke early to book a tour to swim with the dolphins, but there are babies in the water right now and in order to protect them they don't allow swimming. I went dolphin watching instead! It was magnificient to see them swarming around the boat, showing off, doing flips, swimming so gracefully. You can even hear them breathing as they come up for air. Beautiful creatures! There were hundreds of them, though they seemed to pair off into little groups of 2-4, like each had its own circle of friends. After at least 50 futile attempts, I managed to get a pic of one of them leaping into the air! I think I'm the only one who did! Its not easy catching them in time!
I met an interesting girl named amanda. Shes a year younger than me, from london. Amanda had been saving up to buy a house for years, and was still not even halfway to the $25,000 required. She hated her 60hr a week job at a bank, had no boyfriend, and hungered to see the world. So she quit her job, put her stuff in storage, and started her adventure in asia, egypt, and israel. She has been traveling now for 7 months! Amazingly she said it only cost about 3000 british pounds ($6000 US) so far, since asia is so cheap (a nice room is only $3). Wow, that's about what is cost for just 1 month in europe!
Later on I went tramping (new zealand term for hiking) through a rainforest to haruru falls. Halfway there it started to get dark, and it occurred to me to turn back. With the trees so dense it creates a canopy overhead that shuts out the sun as it is, so I knew it would be pitch black and scary at night. luckily I did have a flashlight and I thought it would be kind of fun to conquer that fear, plus I was really enjoying the exercise. So I continued on. The trail was really fantastic, it even took me through mangroves and over water, winding its way through the still forest, just me and the critters hiding under foliage. the light slowly dimmed down to nothing. I still wasn't to the waterfall yet, but at this point I couldn't have seen it anyway. The noises started to get to me, what was that? A bird, snake, aligator, bear, someone hiding behind the tree, ready to pounce? Ah, my imagination went wild and I ran at full speed, trying to make enough noise to drowned out the song of the rainforest. The shadows were taking spooky forms now, predators at every turn. I kept on, telling myself its just like camping, no worries. I made it out just as they were coming to close the gate. All that fear my thoughts created! Really, NZ doesn't have any poisonous creatures, certainly not the kind my imagination had created! It was exhilerating though. Quite a rush!
The dolphin cruise was so nice, perfect weather, dramatic scenery everywhere! I can't get over how much unspoiled land there is here!
4/17/07 WAITOMO Left motel early to head to waitomo caves. I read about a black water rafting/abseiling/climbing/glow worm/limestone adventure and I was instantly sold. 7 hour drive through farm land, tiny villages and ugly big cities (auckland wasn't bad, hamilton was), and here I am! So much to do and see here! The adventure that initially lured me in turned out to cost $355 and takes 8 hrs, so I opted out and came up with a better plan. Hike, explore cave by foot, then at night do the abseil in the dark, an easier and much more reasonably priced adventure, plus the best way to see glowworms! I am just vegging out tonight, after driving and snacking like a fast food fiend all day! I saw two funny hippy vans today with words painted on, ''make love not war, see driver for details'', and ''if there's no police, there's no speed limit''. I'm going to bed, got a big day tomorrow!!!!!!!
1/18/07 WAITOMO What a fun, exciting day!!! First thing in the morning I set out for the ruakuri cave tour. At this point, I was still a cave virgin. Apparently there aren't many morning people here because there were just 2 of us. Perfect! The cave has been expertly maintained and although artifically (lights, pathways, doors) tampered with, its own natural ecosystem has been meticulously protected. What a wonder of creation! To think simple rainwater can carve these fabulous underground worlds! Just water!
I also got a close glimpse of glowworms, which I believe can only be found here and in some of australia, but waitomo has the most. Each worm has up to 50 strings hanging down that they use like a spiderweb, to catch prey. And the glowing occurs as they burn calories, the more they eat the more they glow.
After the tour I went tramping again. The trails here are incredible! This one cut through caves, forest and streams.
Afterwards I learned more about caves and glowworms in the cave museum.
Around dusk my abseil (rappel) team headed out to the 150 ft. canyon and got decked out in jumpsuits, gum boots and hard hats. The warned us that heavier people tend to go faster, lighter ones may have to work harder. They strapped us in and gave quick instructions, lift the rope to go, pull to stop, now let go of the deck and turn off your lights! You hardly have to grasp the rope at all, braking was no problem, if you let go you pretty much stop. Its very safe and I thought quite easy. The others seemed to have trouble, I think they were scared and gripping too hard. I made it to the bottom long before the group and got to see the glowworm display. It looked as if I was gazing at the stars on a clear night. We went back up by ladder, and again I went straight for the bottom. This time one of the guides kept up with me and asked if I wanted to go ahead of the group with him and go down again really fast. Of course I did! We ran back up the ladder and this time used different ropes, these ones weren't so stiff. Ah, it was so much fun!!! He said that it was the fastest he'd ever gone with anyone, and called me a true adventurous kiwi girl. He asked if I'd like to come back with him after he dropped the group off and do some more, but it was getting late and I needed to head out early. He really loves what he does! Its great to see!
I've found kiwis in general to be a friendly, chatty bunch. I have to sneak past the hotel owners unless I feel like hearing about their garden for an hour or so! Nice people though, its just hard to find a polite way to leave the conversation.
I can see what jim meant about the cost of living being so high! Although our dollar is like 1.34 here, the prices are so high it doesn't really matter. It cost $50 to fill 3/4 tank in a little economy car! Lunches range from 15-20 (just for a salad!), dinners from 30-50. I was surprised at how he had raved about our low prices in arizona!
Off to roturua today!!!
4/19/07 ROTORUA Another short scenic drive to rotorua. Here autumn was really starting to peek its head out and the lovely yellows, reds, and oranges mingled with greens. The weather joined in the festivities with a drop in temperature.
From the road I could see the steam dancing into the sky as I approached the orakei korako thermal park. At first glance it looked like clouds of smoke.
The volcanoe had left an ethereal and varied landscape, sometimes looking like an artist's palette with bright green, pink, brown and orange algae, other times snow white with grey and black cracks, small geysers spurting out the ground sporatically, hissing, steaming, gurgling, boiling water, bubbling mud pools, even a small geothermal cave (only 2 have been found in the world). Earth really has a mind of its own here, the volcanoe seems to be an eternal, living, breathing presence.
Upon entering rotorua one immediately breathes in the sulphur, a constant odor lingering in the air. This is a spa town, with tons of thermal pools, mineral baths, and spa treatments. The mud here is supposed to be among the best quality in the world. Sulpher is also really big, known to have great health and beauty benefits.
After booking a room, I headed to hells gate thermal reserve, which claims to be the hottest in the world. This one wasn't as colorful, just white, grey, and black, with hints of light green and brown. It had much bigger pools though, and really did look like hell as it starts to freeze over, and the fires have all died out but the ground is still an inferno.
I decided I had to try a mud and sulpher bath while I was here. The mud was like bathing in silk, but after 30 min I was really ansy and ready to move on. They make you take a freezing cold shower, then jump into the steaming hot, greenish sulpher bath, which was really nice, but again, they left me in there for half and hour, and after awhile it gets boring.
I saw that they did traditional new zealand maori (the indians that settled here long before the europeans came- a huge part of NZ culture) massages, and allowed myself to spluge. I had to see what it was all about. It was very relaxing, simular to swedish and also to russian sports massage, very segmental yet flowing and rhythmic.
That's it for my spa indulgences.
I'm really fascinated by these thermal areas and anxious to see one more if I have time tomorrow!
4/20/07 ROTORUA Took a drive to the agrodome to see what zorbing was all about. They put you in a ball filled with hot water that sits inside another huge ball and roll you down a hill. It looks like loads of fun, but I decided I could find more productive ways to spend money.
New zealand is full of adventure, thrilling rides and extreme sports. Everything imaginable. Skydiving, spelunking, jetboating, parasailing, etc. etc.They also invented bungy jumping, zorbing, high ropes, the luge, swooping (kindof like a freefall then a hangglide), and a handful of other cool stuff.
I took a walk through downtown, and shopped briefly before heading out to wai-o-tapu thermal wonderland. This was the most colorful and least heated one yet. The minerals create such brilliant hues of florescent orange, green, blue, purple, brown, red, even opal. And you can walk right up to most of these. There was a florenscent green pool, and one surrounded in bright orange. Absolutely stunning!
I was advised not to miss out on the maori hangi and concert. I didn't know what to expect really. It started out with a few stories and a man coming on stage and sticking his tongue out in warrior stance. Then they took a korean on stage and told him to be chief for the evening. At my table everyone was from new zealand, the rest were all koreans! I was told they have their own bus and hotel strictly for koreans, where they serve korean food. They sit in the safety of familiar faces and comforts of home, whilst gazing out the window at the foreign land. Interesting. Not my style, personally. I like the excitement of the unknown. As long as there is a heater of some sort. Must have heat. So far none of the motels have had any ac/heat unit, but they all have heated blankets and little plug in heaters, which is really all you need. And there are two buttons to flush the toilets, which urks me because they do the same thing as far as I can tell, why do you need two? And sinks have separate facets for hot and cold, so if you want warm water, you have to fill the sink up using both.
Anyway, back to the hangi. They took us outside to show us how they were cooking the food, traditional maori style, using hot rocks. I had to laugh as the koreans all got out their cameras (they are worse than me!) and did a photoshoot of the food cooking, getting served, even being eaten! I would hate to sit through a slide show, ''this is the food, this is our waiter, that's the wall, there's the ceiling fan, the toilet stall, etc.''
They set up a big buffet, with potatoes, corn, salmon, mussels, fish, lamb, venison, pork, chicken, desserts, etc. A man sang maori songs while we dined, then they did an hour long performance, with dancing, cultural stories, etc.
They really didn't seem to take it very seriously, the girls had a really hard time keeping a straight face and frequently burst out laughing. The men tried to act out their warrior heritage and failed miserably. They looked bored. This is obviously not a current maori practice, probably only done for tourists I imagine. All in all, I wasn't terribly impressed with the show or the food. It may be because I chose the cheapest one. Who knows, maybe the others are better. It just felt really fake. I was entertained though, and had great fun joking and laughing with the couple next to me.
I think rotorua is too touristy for me. Everything seems geared towards luring you in with crafty advertising, and sucking as much money from you as possible. The thermal areas were amazing though! I should have spent the whole time in parks!
I am happy to be on my way to the south island!
4/21/07 DUNEDIN Flew out to dunedin and met micha at the airport, then we got some dinner and chatted all evening. He lives in a lovely old colonial style house. In new zealand students get $10,000 free for living expenses! But apparently its very rare to have heat of any kind, even though you get frost on the inside of your windows! Not even the million dollar homes have central heating. I guess you get acclimated to it. He had a spare bed all made up for me so I didn't want to be rude and I thought, if everyone else here can stand the cold so can I. Ah, I didn't get one wink of sleep as I shivered under a blanket, 3 layers of clothes and a huge coat. Yes, I am a woose. I am getting a motel for the second night . I can't take it!
I was told the reason for the 2 facets and 2 buttons on the toilet is water conservation. You are forced to fill the basin instead of letting water run down the drain, and one button only fills the toilet half way. Now I know. NZ is so environmentaly conscious! I am really impressed! That's all I have for today...
4/22/07 NUGGET POINT Arose early and went in search of a hotel. The south is markedly colder than the north! Like autumn and winter! I'm so glad I came prepared with warm clothes.
Met micha back at his house and after some lunch and a visit to the information center, we drove to the otago peninsula to see some wildlife. There was one fur seal swimming peacefully, but the viewing point is quit far up so its not so easy to see.
Then we drove another few hours down to nugget point and walked down to a few different viewing places. At the first one there were tons of seals crawling along the rocks and playing in the water. The last one contained one yellow eyed penguin who waddled around contentedly. Again, they were so far away that you really had to squint to spot them. But it was still neat to see them in their natural habitat!
At one of the beaches on the way micha found a whole pauau shell; these large, beautiful irridescent mussel shells that are only found in NZ.
We stopped on the way back to eat some fresh sea food, and returned quite late. I dropped him off, and returned to my nice warm motel and immediately crashed as the lack of sleep caught up with me.
4/23/07 QUEENSTOWN Ah, this is truly the icing on the cake! Queenstown is breathtaking! After saying goodbye to my friend I began the scenic drive. Rolling green hills and farms gradually begame magestic brown mountains, decorated with vivid yellow trees and surrounded by streams, lakes, and autumn tinted shrubs.
At my motel I glimpsed through some pamplets and found every thrill imaginable! This is where bungee jumping originated, and is a huge part of their history here... I would be foolish to not partake in such a cultural event... Ah, its my biggest fear though! I am trying to overcome it. Its completely safe. Only people to ever die from it had preexisting heart and health conditions. I don't...
As I walked around town there was a hanglider sailing through the sky, and I thought, ''thats more my style''. Oh, it looked so spectacular!!!
I am wishing I had saved more time for this area! Milford sound is another 3 hours away but is known to be one of the most scenic wonders of the world! It also has world famous hiking... Ah, I am absolutely torn. Can I do it all in 1 day and 1 morning? I will figure it out tomorrow.
NZ makes delicious savignon blanc from marlbourough. Today I also tasted their ginger beer, much like a ginger ale but with alcohol. Mmm. Its really yummy.
I keep trying to be good with salads and such but the sweets are getting out of hand. Cookies, caramel fudge, manuka honey, hokey pokey ice cream (NZ toffee), ahhh. It is part of the fun though.
NZ food is pacific rim style. Lots of seasonal stuff, right now potatoes, pumpkin, peppers, lamb, seafood, green lipped mussels. Steakhouses are also big here. Fruit orchards are plentiful on the countryside. But surprisingly their produce isn't much better than ours. Tomatoes especially are quite bland. Maybe their soil is devoid of nutrients too? I wonder what makes some fresh veggies taste better than others?
Either way, the food is still scrumptious!!! I have two recipes I am determined to duplicate somehow; a roasted capiscum chicken lasagna and a warm apricot kumara salad. Yum!
I want to retire early and make the most of the daylight hours tomorrow!
4/24/07 QUEENSTOWN Again I seem to be the only early riser. My pilot and I embarked on our journey to remarkable mountain, which was mount froto or something like that in lord of the rings. I was the only flyer. Up and up we went, passing the most spectacular scenery; misty mountains, blue lakes and rivers, rings of clouds twirl around it all giving it a surreal quality.
About a quarter of the way to the top he showed me the usual take off point, then asked if I got good grades in school. Yes. Ok. Do you want to go to the very top? We never do this, because if you don't listen and take off properly, you can get injured. So you have to pay attention. Ok. Up and up we drove, finally reaching the peak. The views from here were absolutely breathtaking!
I asked how often he lauched from here, he said less than once a year! For some reason I still wasn't scared yet, it seemed simple as he instructed me. Just run. Keep running or you hit mountain. That's it. Everything else is easy. We got decked out in the hangliding gear and ran like the wind right off the cliff. There is a sudden drop, then a smooth glide. Your body gets turned horozontal, and you really fly like a bird. Through clouds, between mountains. It is fantastic! He taught me how to turn and go fast, and how to brake and then drop, and had me take control for awhile. I was happy just soaring idly through the sky. I think he misread my lack of fear and sense of adventure when he decided to turn the adrenaline up, did a sudden brake, then a drop right into the mountain, almost crashing until at the critical moment he swooped us back up and over. Ahhh. Then he did some more daredevil airobatics, and all the sudden drops made me feel really sick. I was afraid I would puke. As we were about to land he got the camera pole tangled up and almost crashed us into the gate. Ahhhh. I was terrified. And queazy. I don't think he usually does any of those tricks with clients. Maybe I should've shown more fear. He seemed to think he could push it to the limits with me. Don't know how he got that impression! I'm really just a scaredy cat.
Don't get me wrong, it was a blast. But I think next time I'd do the more leisurely paragliding, just in case I get another crazy pilot. Adventurous and adrenaline junky are very different things. One more second and I would've gotten really sick.
Afterwards my shaky legs carried me to a café for soup and a beer to settle my stomach and calm my nerves. I decided then and there I would not bungee jump. Or canyon swing (another NZ original; you jump off a canyon and freefall 200 feet before the swing catches you and swoops you back and forth). No way. That was enough adrenaline for me!
I survived, and just in time before the rain began pouring down.
After a little break I got out my umbrella and spent the rest of the day strolling in the rain alongside the lake. NZ is truly nature at its finest! I've never seen autumn so well pronounced!
Had my last dinner and played trivia in the pub. I had a lot of lucky guesses and didn't do so bad considering I was alone and the other teams were 5 or more people. Pure luck really.
Stuffed, wet and full to the brim of good memories and new experiences, I can honestly say I got everything I could have wanted out of this trip. I came here for adventure and for nature, and found it on every corner exceeding my expectations. Only regret is missing out on milford sound.
Tomorrow morning I still have time for more adventures. For now I sleep like the dead.